Written by Jonathan Atari
In July 2025, our Adventure Planing Expert Jonathan, reunited with a childhood friend on the 6-day Tour des Combins — it quickly became one of those trips you wish you could rewind and experience again. Perfect weather, stunningly varied terrain, and warm, welcoming huts made every day a highlight. Read Joanthan’s trail report below.
Day 1 – Starting the Tour des Combins: Bourg-St-Pierre to Col de Mille
We arrived in Bourg-St-Pierre on the first bus from Martigny at 9 a.m. The ride up was marked by heavy rain, which had us questioning the forecast, but as soon as we started walking, the skies began to clear and the mountain tops slowly revealed themselves.
The ascent toward Col de Mille is a perfect first day on the trail, following a wide, gently zigzagging path that later narrows into a well-maintained mountain trail. Along the way, we were surrounded by an incredible variety of wildflowers, making the hike especially beautiful.
I particularly enjoyed this day for the long conversations with Roni, as we hadn’t seen each other in over a year. About 1.5 km before Col de Mille, a fellow hiker tipped us off about a hidden lake just two minutes off the trail — invisible from our approach — and we couldn’t resist a quick (and freezing!) swim before continuing on to the Refuge de Mille.
Day 2 – Scenic Huts and Glacier Views on the Tour des Combins
Leaving Refuge Col du Mille and its excellent food behind (seriously, the best vegetarian option on the Tour des Combins), we started a mellow but steady descent for a few kilometres. The abundance of wildflowers along the way — many I had never seen before — was simply stunning. Around Cabane Brunet, the trail gets a bit busier with hikers, as it’s accessible by private car.
We stopped for a sweet snack and a cup of tea before ascending to Col des Avouillons, enjoying a short but beautiful walk along a gushing cascade, followed by breathtaking views of the Petit Combin and its glaciers. It was also nice to cross paths with fellow hikers we had met the day before, exchanging quick chats throughout the day.
The initial views of the Glacier de Corbassière were a bit disappointing, as it has clearly become greyer over the years. But the scenery from Cabane de Panossière more than made up for it — absolutely stunning, with the Grand Combin stealing the show.
Day 3 – Wildlife Encounters and Historic Landmarks on the Tour des Combins
The ascent to Col des Otanes first thing in the morning was short but steep — and very challenging for me, probably thanks to a poor night’s sleep. We said goodbye to the British-Swedish couple we had connected with over the past few days. Just past Col des Otanes, right by the trail, a herd of about 20 ibexes was simply lounging — what a lucky encounter!
A bit of snow appeared along the way, but nothing serious as we made the long descent into the deep valley of Hotel Mauvoisin, passing small waterfalls and, of course, more wildflowers. The tunnels detailing the construction of the Mauvoisin Dam were surprisingly fascinating, with photos highlighting not just the technical side, but also the workers’ lives and the dam’s significance.
Later, our first drizzle and cloudy skies made the ascent to Col de Tsofeiret eventually easier. While enjoying a beer and gazing at the misty mountains, my eyes landed on a marmot about 30 metres away, quietly preparing for the night. I watched him for a while from afar, until Roni joined me and we shared a lively conversation about the day’s experiences.
Day 4 – Authentic Alpine Culture
The day we had been dreading finally arrived — 23 km with roughly 1,100 m of elevation gain and loss. Luckily, the storm forecasted for the day had arrived early and hit us during the night, leaving only a bit of a cough from the open window. We woke up to a mystical mountain scene, with clouds drifting between valleys and peaks, hiding and revealing the landscape — truly majestic!
The ascent to Fenêtre du Durand was challenging, but it was here that we first felt our legs slip into that automatic walking rhythm, pulling us step by step. By then, the sun had come out, brightening the long stretch ahead, which mostly follows a relatively flat dirt road flanking the valley.
Along the way, we got a strong sense of the local mountain and shepherding culture, passing many still-active shepherd huts. This kind of walking is surprisingly refreshing, making the long day feel less grueling — as we could see from other hikers’ smiles along the trail. Refuge Champillon stands out as the most unique hut on the route, with its artsy design, country-bar vibe, and Marcello, who seems perfectly at home in this mountain world.
Day 5 – Snow-Covered Peaks, Rainbows, and Forest Trails on the Tour des Combins
Last night we had a lovely chat with a British trail runner who arrived after 8 p.m. and a Canadian woman hiking the Vallée d’Aosta AV1. Champillon truly is special. Another stormy night left us waking up to snow-dusted peaks — and the irresistible smell of warm croissants. Tiny snowflakes drifted from a bright blue sky, and we were lucky enough to spot a rainbow waiting for us on the far side of Col du Champillon!
It was the coldest and windiest day of the hike, though also the shortest, so we timed our trek to reach St. Rhémy before the heavier afternoon rain. A misread HHT3 sign sent us on an extra 150 m climb, with shortcuts we found on the map only making the journey tougher in hindsight. The second half of the hike passed through a forest — a rare treat so far — and was very pleasant.
St. Rhémy is a charming little commune, but we mostly stayed in our hotel room, enjoying the comfort and watching the rain outside. The staff were stylish and friendly, and Roni and I had fun noting the contrast between the guests and the hotel’s character, especially over dinner. Both dinner and breakfast were excellent, a perfect way to end the day.
Day 6 – Epic Alpine Panoramas on the Final Stage of the Tour des Combins
Certainly the day with the best scenery of the whole tour! We took a taxi to Grand-St.-Bernard with a very friendly driver. It was super windy, and though it had snowed overnight again, the sky was now completely blue. Today included a few stretches of walking in snow, which had Roni constantly commenting — well, that wouldn’t happen back home in Israel!
At one point, we were treated to a breathtaking panorama: the Mont Blanc Massif ahead, a lake on the left, a lake on the right — simply “wow.” The walk toward and just past Col du Nevé de la Rousse had some trickier sections, including well-marked rock-hopping and short, steep, slightly slippery descents, but the perfect weather kept us calm.
The valley leading to Refuge Tsisette felt wonderfully remote, and we spotted so many marmots along the way. By the last 3–4 hours, we were moving almost mechanically — legs tired and a long evening ahead to reach Geneva — just walking, walking, walking. One last view of the Liddes Valley in beautiful afternoon light, spotting parts of our first day’s hike, and before we knew it, we were at the bus stop.
Most Memorable Experience on the Tour des Combins
The most special experience I had was waking up at Refuge Champillon to discover snow-covered peaks, then climbing up to the pass under blue skies, with tiny snowflakes drizzling on me. As we arrived at the pass, a beautiful rainbow appeared in front of our eyes. I was speechless (and not only because I was out of breath). I felt so grateful to be living in such a magical and wonderful world.
If you feel inspired to trek the Tour des Combins, you can find out more here.